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Sustainability

The 30 wear rule (#30wears): what it means and how to use it

By Aryan PanwarPublished Updated 5 min read
Quick answer

The 30 wear rule, also called #30wears, asks one question before you buy clothes: will I wear this at least 30 times? If yes, buy it; if not, leave it. Livia Firth popularised it through Eco-Age's #30wears campaign, and it works as a quick check on cost per wear.

On this page
  1. Where the 30 wears rule came from
  2. Why 30, and what 30 wears looks like
  3. The 30 wears rule and cost per wear
  4. How to use the 30 wears rule before you buy
  5. Clothes that pass easily, and clothes that struggle
  6. Occasion wear and other exceptions
  7. How to check the clothes you already own
  8. Questions

The 30 wears rule is a test you run before buying clothes: will I wear this at least 30 times? If the honest answer is yes, buy it. If you hesitate, leave it. The idea comes from Livia Firth and the #30wears campaign at Eco-Age, the sustainability consultancy she co-founded.

It's sometimes called the 30 wear rule or the 30 wears challenge. The question is the same either way.

Where the 30 wears rule came from

Firth was already describing the test in a June 2015 interview with Eye for Film, while promoting the fashion documentary The True Cost, on which she was an executive producer:

"There are very simple rules. When you buy something, you ask yourself, will I wear it a minimum of 30 times. If the answer is yes, you buy it."

In a 2017 interview with Refinery29 she described it as Eco-Age's campaign: "This is why at Eco-Age we came up with the #30wears campaign."

Note the word minimum. Thirty is the floor, not the target.

Why 30, and what 30 wears looks like

There's nothing scientific about the number. It's round, memorable and high enough to rule out most impulse buys. What makes it useful is how long 30 wears takes in real life:

If you wear itYou reach 30 wears in about
Twice a week15 weeks
Once a week7 months
Twice a month15 months
Once a month2.5 years
Four times a year7.5 years

That table is the rule in practice. A plain T-shirt clears 30 wears in a season. A top you'd only wear to the occasional party may never get there.

The wider context explains why the campaign struck a nerve. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation's 2017 report A New Textiles Economy found that clothing production had roughly doubled in 15 years, while the average number of times a garment is worn before it stops being used fell by 36% over the same period. The same report estimated that some garments are thrown away after just seven to ten wears.

Wearing things longer has a measurable effect. WRAP's 2012 Valuing our clothes report estimated that keeping clothes in active use for just three months longer per item would cut each of their carbon, water and waste footprints by 5 to 10%.

The 30 wears rule and cost per wear

The rule is a shortcut for cost per wear:

Cost per wear = price ÷ number of times worn

The figures below are illustrative and work in any currency:

PiecePriceTimes wornCost per wear
Sale top bought on impulse1527.50
Party outfit90330.00
Plain cotton T-shirt20400.50
Leather boots, resoled once1501501.00
Wool coat over three winters2001002.00

The cheap top costs more per wear than the boots. That's the whole argument in one row. If a piece needs dry cleaning or other paid care, add that to the price before you divide.

How to use the 30 wears rule before you buy

"Will I wear it 30 times?" is hard to answer honestly in a shop. These questions make it easier:

  1. Can I name three outfits with clothes I already own? If you can't, it will wait in the wardrobe for a matching piece you haven't bought yet.
  2. Does it fit and feel comfortable today? Not after an alteration you'll never get round to, and not at a different size.
  3. Will it survive 30 washes? Check the fabric and the care label. Hand-wash-only and dry-clean-only pieces get worn less, because wearing them is more work.
  4. Is it for the life I actually live? Clothes for an imagined version of your week rarely reach 30 wears.
  5. Would I want it at full price? If the discount is doing the persuading, that's a warning.
  6. Do I already own something similar that I don't wear? If so, find out why before buying a fifth version.

Clothes that pass easily, and clothes that struggle

Pieces that tend to clear 30 wears without effort:

  • well-fitting jeans or trousers in navy, black or grey
  • plain T-shirts and knitwear in colours you already wear
  • everyday shoes that are comfortable from the first day
  • a coat or jacket suited to your usual weather
  • a shirt that works both tucked into trousers and open over a T-shirt

Pieces that often fall short: anything bought for one event, trend pieces in a colour or cut you've never worn before, shoes that hurt, very delicate fabrics, and clothes that only go with one other item. Our capsule wardrobe essentials checklist lists the kind of pieces that earn their wears.

Occasion wear and other exceptions

Some clothes will never reach 30 wears in your hands, and that can be fine. A wedding outfit, a formal suit you wear twice a year or a heavy coat in a mild climate don't fit the rule literally.

For these, a better reading is "30 wears over the garment's life", counting every owner. Choose something you'll rewear for years, lend it, rent it or resell it so someone else adds to the count. Renting or borrowing a one-off outfit sidesteps the question entirely.

Children's clothes are the other obvious exception, since growth decides how long they last. Passing them on does the same job as rewearing.

How to check the clothes you already own

The rule is just as useful for what's already in your wardrobe. Three low-effort ways to count:

  • Tally in a notes app or spreadsheet. One line per piece, one tick per wear. Tedious, but precise.
  • Turn hangers around. Hang everything facing one way; after you wear a piece, hang it back the other way. After a season, the unturned hangers show what you never reached for.
  • Use an app with a wear log. Some wardrobe apps record what you wear each day; check the store listing before relying on one. Our look at whether wardrobe apps are worth it covers the trade-offs.

FitWardrobe is our app, and it isn't available yet. It won't count wears, but it is being built to suggest outfits only from clothes you already own, which can bring forgotten pieces back into rotation.

Pieces that are far from 30 wears after a year are worth a second look. Try them in two new outfits this month; if they still don't get worn, pass them on. For more ways to keep clothes in use, see the 7 Rs of sustainable fashion, and for a related ratio that shapes what you buy, the 70/30 wardrobe rule.

Questions

What is the 30 wear rule?

The 30 wear rule, also called the 30 wears rule, asks you to buy a piece of clothing only if you're confident you'll wear it at least 30 times. If the answer is yes, buy it; if you hesitate, leave it. It comes from Livia Firth and Eco-Age's #30wears campaign and is meant to curb impulse buying and keep clothes in use longer.

Who started the 30 wears rule?

Livia Firth, co-founder of the sustainability consultancy Eco-Age, popularised it. She described the test in a 2015 interview while promoting the documentary The True Cost, and in 2017 said Eco-Age came up with the #30wears campaign. No exact launch date is documented, so you'll see both 2015 and 2016 quoted.

How do you calculate cost per wear?

Divide what you paid by the number of times you've worn the piece. A top that cost 15 and was worn twice costs 7.50 per wear; boots that cost 150 and were worn 150 times cost 1.00 per wear. If an item needs dry cleaning or other paid care, add those costs to the price first for a fairer figure.

Does the 30 wears rule apply to wedding or occasion outfits?

Not literally, because few people wear an occasion outfit 30 times. A practical approach is to count wears over the garment's whole life: choose something you'll rewear for years, or lend, rent or resell it so others add to the total. Renting or borrowing a one-off outfit avoids buying something that will mostly hang unworn.

How long does it take to wear something 30 times?

It depends on how often you reach for it. Worn twice a week, a piece hits 30 wears in about 15 weeks. Once a week takes about seven months, and once a month takes two and a half years. That's why everyday basics pass the rule easily while party pieces and trend buys often never get there.

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